Marc Jacobs Doesn’t Want Serious Fashion for Spring 2020

Marc Jacob always goes for drama at his Park Avenue Armory runway shows, and his spring ’20 show was no different. But it was was less serious this time.

Showing on 19th anniversary of 9/11, Jacobs included in his show notes a memory of his show that year, on September 10, 2001. At Pier 54 that night, with the Twin Towers a few hundred yards away, the designer showed a happy collection inspired by ’70s flower children — a stark contrast to the dark events that would happen just hours later.


marc, jacobs, spring, 2020

A floral headpiece — and a smile — at Marc Jacobs spring ’20.
CREDIT: Shutterstock

Jacobs went back to that contrast for spring ’20 with a collection filled with whimsy and joy, pointing to “life, joy, equality, individualism, optimism, happiness indulgence, dreams and a future unwritten” against what he called the “narrative of a dystopian society.” Mentioning the “transient archives of the internet,” and the “endless sea of digital influencers,” he pointed to specific people of the IRL past as his inspirations:  Karl Lagerfeld, Doris Day, Lee Radziwill and Anita Pallenberg.


marc, jacobs, kaia, gerber, spring 2020

Kaia Gerber in the last look of Marc Jacobs spring ’20.
CREDIT: Shutterstock


marc, Jacobs, spring, 2020

A shearling Mary Jane at Marc Jacobs spring ’20.
CREDIT: Shutterstock

The result was another collection with his signature whimsy, and then some. There were flowing florals; breezy pantsuits in plaids, patterns and vibrant colors like sunshine yellow; metallic pants; puffs of tulle floral, vinyl and leather; Victoriana nightgown dresses; top hats; colorful knits, all on a diverse group of models (something Jacobs has long been doing). On foot, low suede mules, sneakers and clomping platforms made walking easy but also fun. Gigi Hadid walked out in a knit minidress wearing no shoes but walking on her tiptoes.


Gigi Hadid on the catwalkMarc Jacobs show, Runway, Spring Summer 2020, New York Fashion Week, USA - 11 Sep 2019

Gigi Hadid on her tip toes at Marc Jacobs spring ’20.
CREDIT: Shutterstock


Model on the catwalkMarc Jacobs show, Runway, Spring Summer 2020, New York Fashion Week, USA - 11 Sep 2019

Marc Jacobs spring ’20.
CREDIT: Shutterstock

The designer also referenced HBO’s series “Euphoria” (with both joy and the aforementioned dystopia), and there were hints of the wardrobes of characters like Zendaya’s Rue and Hunter Schafer’s Jules: genderless metallic pants, masculine pantsuits like the one that Rue wears to the school dance, and yes, loads of creative eye makeup in a rainbow of glitters.


marc, Jacobs, spring 2020

Backstage at Marc Jacobs spring ’20.
CREDIT: Shutterstock


marc jacobs spring '20

Marc Jacobs spring ’20.
CREDIT: Shutterstock


Marc jacobs spring 2020

Marc Jacobs spring ’20.
CREDIT: Shutterstock

Jacobs had a skip in his step as he walked the finale, capping off a season that has put New York fashion definitively back on the map with thoughtful, inclusive messaging, and an all-American smile.

See more styles on the runway from the Marc Jacobs spring 2020 collection at NYFW.

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